Some sort of deep dive into precisely how Audemars Piguet's Code 11. 59 series continues to advance
Audemars Piguet's Code 11. 59 collection came into this world in 2019 with a bible-sized blast. Thirteen watches in whole. Six different sub-series, via three-hand with date for you to minute repeater. Three brand new in-house movements. A whole fresh case. And over 500 responses on HODINKEE's original starting post. The explosions had been heard all over the world, but not fully welcome.
There were so much to do that day, as well as honestly too much to form the coherent opinion right away. Just about the most prestigious and oldest models in Swiss watchmaking possesses launched a brand new collection not related to the company's flagship Royal Oak. For better or maybe worse, Audemars Piguet could be the Royal Oak, and the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet.
So if not necessarily the Royal Oak, exactly what the heck is Code 11. 59? Three years after the difficult debut, it feels such as the Code 11. 59 collection is finally starting to get its sweet spot. Allow me to share three steps Audemars Piguet has taken to achieve this goal.
Code 11. 59 is inherently complex Much of the negative rhetoric adjacent Code 11. 59 features focused on the time and particular date of Code 11. fifty nine, the simplest entry-level model within the series, with a very poor execution. Granted, the watch will not look much better today, however it's also never been the actual hero of the collection.
There's a reason the particular AP has released so many different types of Code 11. fifty nine -- it's to demonstrate the flexibleness of the case profile as the property of complications. Focusing on a few hands completely misses the actual and, as a result, many pass up the biggest news of the Program code 11. 59 launch (development of a new in-house included automatic chronograph movement, tama?o 4400, AP's first on location chronograph). Yes, it's AP's fault to include it inside the initial batch, but really understandable that it wants to take more affordable execution to market.
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Audemars Piguet offers slowly corrected its earlier missteps. I don't call to mind when it last introduced the modern third-hand code 11. fifty nine reference to the market, and AP has been experimenting with new complexnesses and new formats with regard to existing complex models. Browse the big news I protected earlier this week - typically the Associated Press released several different Code 11. fifty nine models that, in my opinion, are just some of the best looking examples still.
There's a brand-new pair of flying tourbillon versions that aren't just bare containers with tourbillons with them, they feature details just like the inky dials made of sturdy onyx and aesthetic alterations like no numerals employed. Don't overlook the skeleton product, which highlights the insane symmetrical movement architecture adorned to the highest standards on the inside. (Did I mention often the crazy shade of glowing blue on the bridge? Yes. I do think it's pretty sweet. )
The same ridiculous symmetry is found in the motion layout of the Code eleven. 59 Flying Tourbillon Wathe, a watch beast with shown movement execution and flyback chronograph functions.
There's no Code 11. fifty nine Grande Sonnerie this time around (the AP did it in 2020), but surprisingly these appearance a lot more complete than the relatively ordinary lacquered dials about the first Code 11. fifty nine watches. Yes, both the Hovering Tourbillon and the Skeleton Soaring Tourbillon were included in the initial Code 11. 59 types in 2019 (the Mixture Tourbillon Chronograph also linked the collection in 2020), though the execution has only experienced the past three years improved. Come on, man, come on, how can you not hocuspocus over the wild double develop bridges and crazy interesting depth perspective in the Code 10. 59 Flying Tourbillon Timepiece? If it came from an independent business in the Vallée de Joux, collectors would politely mattress line around the block.
Mixed materials bring the best code 11. 59 The solid onyx switch on the latest Code 14. 59 flying tourbillon is the main material of the 3 reference materials I included last Wednesday, but the most critical material in all three products is ceramic. One of the benefits associated with the two-part Code 11. 59 case design how the Associated Press swept up three years ago was the ability to employ two different types of materials a single watch.
All new Code 11. fifty nine references use an octagonal internal ceramic case (Code 11. 59's only reference to the actual Royal Oak), enclosed by simply 18k white gold or rose gold colored lug cages. The result is really interesting aesthetically, creating an unexpected two-tone effect through the application of any superhard inner ceramic event that protects the movements and the precious metal bezel, lugs and caseback.
Two of the three new Code 11. 59 watches published last week feature a black hard inner case, but the Traveling Tourbillon Openworked features a brilliant blue ceramic inner scenario, using the same blue fine ceramic craftsmanship as the Royal Oak Blue ceramic Danny themselves last week Experience the perpetual date. Colored ceramics are more tough achieve than black and white ceramics; it wasn't until the early on 2010s that sintering techniques were figured out to achieve colorings like blue, red and also green. Of course , these interior shells are all hand-decorated, which has a satin-brushed central area along with polished chamfers.
While AP does spruce up the ceramic material on its own, it works with suppliers to generate the material. (Not surprising-few Deluxe watch brands make their unique ceramics. All I know involving are Rolex, and maybe Orifice. ) AP works with a firm called Bangerter, which runs on the combination of zirconia powder plus a an undisclosed adhesive. The actual binder is removed prior to sintering process begins, yet after the five-axis CNC unit has shaped the exclusive octagonal inner shell. The particular blue shade (and hardness) of the ceramic material can eventually appear when hot to about 1, 4000 degrees Celsius.
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Well, Audemars Piguet and Bangerter seem to be capable to withstand the heat.
color is king Yesterday, after the launch of the completely new Code 11. 59 design, I spoke with some central members of the Audemars Piguet team and they discussed a few of their processes. As it turns out, coloring selection is often one of the remaining stages of product development, but it really goes hand-in-hand with a watch's specific material selection. Following your complexity and materials are actually determined, the colors of the call, case and movement ingredients are all taken into account. " There are actually two ways to color elements, " a member of the AP team told me. “You can also add a layer to it, you might as well go into the material itself. ” For example , the bright azure bridges on the self-winding skeletal frame tourbillon are made of titanium currently easier to apply a specific atomic layer deposition (ALD) course of action, which provides vivid hues.
In the new Computer code 11. 59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, the combination of african american ceramic and 18k rose gold colored creates a unique two-tone influence that is ultimately an creatively smart move as well. Not like the more traditional two-tone layout approach that may seem old, the ultra-clean black porcelain surrounded by a precious metal situation feels unexpectedly modern, increasing the visual effect of the skeletonized lugs and interior octagonal case.
This may not be Audemars Piguet's first expertise in a two-tone world rapid far from it. (However, so as to reflect history fully in addition to accurately, there are very few retro Audemars Piguet complication timepieces. Audemars Piguet is said to obtain produced a total of 8-10 two-tone complication watches throughout three years between 1882 as well as 1969. Oak before their debut. ) The first major Code 11. 50 achievement story was actually the two-tone skeleton tourbillon that AP donated to the Only Watch charitable trust auction in 2019 and then sold for an impressive CHF 1 million, the most available One of the most expensive AP wrist watches at auction. The accomplishment of this unique piece surely foreshadows the latest Code 13. 59 release: all three designs feature the two-tone, two-material combination first deployed of them costing only Watch.
Right now, Royal Oak is known regarding having a plethora of cosmetic variants to choose from, but it got the company decades to really start off experimenting with octagonal shapes and also textured-finish dial finishes. However from the jet black minimalism of the onyx dial Codes 11. 59 Flying Tourbillon to the electric blue decorations on the bridges, we don't hesitate to expand the particular Code 11. 59's selection to be as wide-ranging as is possible. New skeleton flying tourbillon.
Something informs me that by the time 2069 reaches its destination, we won't be celebrating Computer 11. 59's 50th everlasting nature in the same way that the entire see industry has recognized typically the Royal Oak this year in the Golden Jubilee. Code eleven. 59 is definitely not a Supérieur Oak, but that doesn't indicate it's a failure as a production, or even that it deserves a similar level of high criticism many of us saw when it launched 36 months ago.
A good deal can change in three years. Any time Code 11. 59 became available, Baselworld and SIHH have been still around. There's no global outbreak to consider, and older, obsolete AP series like Millenary and Jules Audemars happen to be in the recent rearview mirror. I realize I've changed a lot during the last three years, and while I'm unlikely to dictate human nature to observe brands, I think AP could possibly have learned from the distracting troubles of the original Code 10. 59 release and is at this point able to focus at its top quality.
After all, often the Code 11. 59 sequence caused such a stir to be able to first debuted, and its regular, incremental improvements are only fittingly under the spotlight.